Sewing and Attaching the Sleeves

We're certainly cracking on with things now. I deviate from the pattern a fair bit here, heads up! You can choose to do as I did, or to follow the pattern. The view I was vaguely following is for A with bishop sleeves, but you could also do B with fluted sleeves.
I sewed the sleeves when really tired and ill, but desperate to sew! I therefore failed entirely to read the other column of instructions and made my cuffs/sleeve bands set without buttons. I have fairly small hands so I'm able to easily get them through the sleeves, yet still get a lovely bishop sleeve. The pattern has buttons, so you choose what will work for you. This is for set cuffs without buttons, which I custom made fit-wise, as the pattern pieces would have been way too loose for my wrists.

1. As we are doing a French seam (again!), with wrong sides together, matching the notices, fold the sleeve lengthwise and pin. Sew 3/8" seam, press and trim.
2. Flip and sew 1/4". Press seam towards back of sleeve.
3. Try sleeve on for fit.

3) Sleeve sewn with a French seam down the side.

4) Gathering stitches.

4) Gathering stitches.

4. We need gathers at both the sleeve head and cuff, so run gathering stitches between the marks on the pattern, just like we did for the bodice front.

5) The was the indication pattern piece for the gathers but it was too big, so I ignored it!

5) This is the sleeve band, which I also found too big. I reduced it by about an inch.

​5. Try the sleeve band on for fit - mine was massively too big so I cut it down by about an inch. I also choose to ignore the gathering guide because again it was too big.
6. Gather the sleeves so they are going to work with the size of sleeve band you are using and tie in place.
7. Sew or baste the gathers.

6) Gather the sleeves by pulling the thread. Does this feel about right?

For sewing the gathers and sleeve band, you're going to want to remove the arm of your sewing machine, to make it as small as possible.

7) I sewed my gathers in place.

8) Fold the sleeve band in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.

8. Fold the sleeve band in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.
​9. On the outside of the sleeve, pin it to the lower edge of the sleeve with the edges of the band extending past the sleeve.
10. Sew up the edges of the sleeve band together and press (I only had 3/8" seam allowance here).
11. Stitch a 3/8" seam around the cuff and then press the sleeve band over the seam and turn it inside.
12. I slipstitched the inside by hand to finish the cuff.
13. Repeat on the other side.

9) Pin the band on the outside of the sleeve.

​Now we are going to attach the sleeves - again a job I was doing ill and tired, and although I have absolutely done French seams on a sleeve head before, I failed abysmally to do so this time! Instead I ended up sewing a 3/8" seam and then realising my mistake, sewed another seam line 1/4" away from this to make up the 5/8" seam in the pattern. I then just cut off the excess so it looks like a faux French seam! Choose whether you want to do a French seam here (they are tricky on curves) or want to do another seam treatment like pressing them open. Net won't fray so you are ok to do this. Whatever you are doing, follow the general guide below:

1. Start by ensuring you have the correct sleeve for each side - the double notch should always be at the back. Try it all on to get your head around it if you need.
2. Match up the underarm seam with the bottom bodice seam. Then match up the notches. Pin in place.
3. Then finally match up the top of sleeve head mark with the shoulder seam and pin.
4. Pull the gathering stitches lightly to fit the sleeve in and pin in place, tying off the gathering thread.
5. Sew all around the sleeve head and press.

Try your bodice on and ensure everything is fitting how you want it.