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Vintage in Edinburgh

Cutting Out

9/5/2019

2 Comments

 
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So we are using the Simplicity 8013 pattern as a base, and I used my normal size with my normal modifications for fit (namely shortening the bodice by an inch).  We are already starting on mods though! We are roughly following the shorter length view A with the bishop sleeves. Seam allowance given in the pattern is 5/8" and is included on the pieces.

Fundamentally we'll be cutting out 19 pieces as follows:
  • Bodice front x2
  • Bodice back on the fold (mod) - reduce 5/8" seam allowance
  • Sash x2 (or on fold)
  • Front skirt x4 (mod)
  • Side skirt x4
  • Back skirt on the fold (mod)
  • Sleeves x2
  • Cuffs (sleeve band) x2
  • Ruffle piece we will be self creating later

We will therefore cut two extra front skirt pieces and eliminated all lining pieces (obviously the whole point is its sheer!!)

A quick note that tulle doesn't have a grain line like other fabrics and also no right/wrong side, which can either make things easier or more difficult! I still used the pieces as if there were a grain, and was consistent with what I used as the right side. More for good sewing practices than anything else.

BUT WAIT!

Skirt

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Fold up the skirt front 3" above view A and cut two Then fold up 2" above view A and cut two
Picture
Place your pieces out if you need, so you can see the gradient from front to back
Before we cut our pieces out, I wanted the dressing gown to be slightly longer at the back with a graduation from shorter at the front to a train effect at the back. So for the skirt pieces, I did as follows, basing everything on view A:
  • Skirt front  x2 3" above view A line (I'm going to call this Skirt Front Short)
  • Skirt front x2 2" above view A (I'm going to call this Skirt Front Longer)
  • Side skirt front x2 going from 2" above view A to the same level as view A
  • Side skirt back x2 same as view A
  • Skirt back x1 going from same as view A to 1" below view A at the centre back point (the middle of this piece)

Now although that definitely has a slight effect and I do have a train, you could choose to make it more pronounced if you wish.
​

And just remember to keep your fabric because we still have the bottom ruffle to make!
​

Bodice

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The line of pins above the pattern piece indicate the extra inch I added to the bodice for coverage. You can also see where I shortened it.
For the front bodice, I wanted more bust coverage (because it's a dressing gown not a low cut dress!) so I added 1" to either side of the top of the neckline.

I thought I wanted more room in the bodice back since it's a dressing gown, so didn't eliminate the seam allowance when transferring it to a single piece on the fold. However, I then pleated out this extra, so I suspect you could cut your bodice back on the fold and move your pattern piece over slightly (so it is 1/4" off your fabric) to eliminate the seam allowance.

(I shortened the bodice by an inch because apparently I'm a tiny person these days! Do whatever modifications for fit you are likely to normally need).

Sash

As I said at the start, I didn't have enough fabric to make the sash as intended in the pattern (I only had 1 metre) so I just used as much length of my fabric as I could to cut out 2 pieces for the sash and sewed them in the middle. You can choose whatever length of sash you wish. If you just buy one metre of fabric, you're sash length will be like mine. If you have more yardage, you can make the longer sash in the pattern. You will still likely have a join in the middle.
​

Picture
As you can see, my fabric was not long enough for the sash pattern piece!

Marking Pattern Pieces

A quick note on marking your pieces - this is a freaking nightmare with tulle! I used a mix of tailor's tacks and pen and got annoyed! I also left the pattern pieces attached so I knew which side was which to avoid confusion of pieces!
2 Comments
Kay
27/8/2020 09:20:45 pm

Only just found your blog and love. I hope you come back to this sew along it's fab x

Reply
Rachael
27/8/2020 10:51:27 pm

Hi Kay,

Sure thing, over a year late! But yeah I actually had all the posts written, just didn't have the demand to actually do the sewalong! All posts up now, holler if I can help xx

Reply



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    Carnivàle Vintage is owned by Rachael Coutts to fulfill her endless need for vintage clothing and jewellery - once her own home drowned in clothes, it was time to open a shop.

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